Travellur

View Original

Paris Art Lovers

Classical art and antique lovers have a million reasons to love Paris and it's not just the Louvre. In this blog treasure hunters will find out what to see, where to stay, where to go for antiques and the best flea market in town. I will save the lengthy discourse on dilettante historical figures for another post. 

do, see, taste, find

Hope you have sensible shoes because your days will be filled with such gorgeousness that you won’t want each one to end. While taxis do come in handy (definitely do a taxi for the flea market), central Paris is small enough and beautiful enough that walking is a good idea and a stand alone pleasure. Wouldn’t want a mere blister to rob you of that blissful exhaustion. Slow walks allow you to see and savor things undetectable when whizzing by in a car. If you want a preview of some slow walks in Paris, head over to Travellur’s IGTV channel where you will find a series of delicious walks in Paris and beyond. Here is a link to one on the Île-Saint-Louis, a tiny island in the center of Paris.

Tips on visiting the Louvre:

If it’s anytime between June - September and you hate lines, buy a ticket online. You still have to wait in a line, but it’s not as bad. Pickpockets and purse snatchers also really like the Louvre, so plan on sporting a cross body bag or mini-backpack thing. Arrive at lunch time, and start with the “Donjon” - a super interesting part of the museum which is always empty and you can see the medieval foundations. Then go see the thing you really want to see, saving your 

Louvre Museum

Yes.

I did say the biggest flea market in the world. The “Puces de Saint-Ouen” lies in the northeastern corner of the city. Its endless curiosities sprawl over seven acres. Sure, there is a kind of method to the madness, but it’s too complex to describe here. Get a map. Or a guide. I recommend Travellur. Be forewarned, it’s only open Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Opening times are a bit of a blur, and most stalls are closing up by 5pm. Best to get there around noon and bring cash. Most larger stalls have a credit card machine, but for small purchases, cash is preferred and the ATMs in the neighborhood are not always working. You may hear rumors of other flea markets in Paris. Trust me, don’t even bother.

But if you are truly serious about treasure hunting, the best place to go is the auctions at Drouot where seventy art & antique dealers stage exciting auctions 6 days a week. My kind of heaven. This is where collectors and shops owners bid on estate sales and niche specialties like antique watches, taxidermy or

thing you’ve ever seen. After taking a thousand photos, duck into Yveline Antiques to browse a highly curated stock of lovely things. Finally, make your way down Rue de Seine to the Point des Arts and savor the sunset from one of the best spots in Paris. You’ll be in good company with views of the Louvre Museum on one end and the Académie Française on the other.

stay

Whether you are thinking of a rental apartment or hotel accommodations, find a place in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th or 8th arrondissement (district) for best access to the things you want to enjoy. The flea market is far from everything and I do NOT recommend staying in that area.

Paris Perfect has many perfectly maintained and perfectly chic apartments particularly in the Saint Germain de Près neighborhood. You’ll be close to treasure rich shopping streets and celebrated cafés like Le Deux Magots. If you prefer a hotel, try the handsome L’Hôtel in the same neighborhood or the hotel Caron de Beaumarchais in the Marais. Also in the Marais but half the price is the Hôtel de Nice - it’s more granny than chic-lux, but leaves you more money to blow at the auction. All these places are truly central to all the points of interest mentioned above.

sample of this weeks auction goodies

Drink it all in

If you love arts, antiques and collectables you will probably arrive Paris thirsty to browse her many treasures. Indeed, the largest, greatest treasure trove in the world, the Louvre Museum, can be found here. Equally significant for acquiring minds is the largest, greatest flea market in the world. Filling in the gaps between the two is a thriving auction scene and curiosity shops scattered throughout the town. Oh and don’t forget about the little museums and private collections you must see! All are waiting to be ravished by you. You just need to know where to go and how to do it.

In this blog I’ll give you some tips on visiting the Louvre, recommend some other museums, dish on the flea market, tell you about cool shops in a cool neighborhood and explain the auction situation.

Read on. Make notes.

primary photo op for the end of your visit. Usually by 4:30pm the halls start to clear and you can get a splendid selfie in front of the Nike of Samothrace all by yourself. Expect a line at the Mona Lisa. She’s always busy. 

After your visit, take some refreshment at Café Marly -  an elegant restaurant and drinks place discretely located in a covered arcade of the museum itself. Access from the Carrousel du Louvre. You  can sip your coup de champagne while watching the sky darken behind the glass pyramids in the center of the grand courtyard. The chocolate sorbet is sublime, fyi.

Besides the Louvre, you should also visit some of the small museums scattered about town. Two notable private collections housed in sumptuous hôtel particuliers (mansions) are the Musée Nissim de Camondo and the Musée Jacquemart-André. Of course my favorite museum in Paris is the Musée Carnevalet and not only because it is the museum of the history of Paris. There are entire rooms taken from famous chateaux, carved gilt paneling completely reconstructed with period antiques. And oh yeah, and it is the museum Audrey Hepburn and Peter O’toole rob in “How to Steal a Million”.

vintage fashion. Not the kind of place you just drop in on casually but certainly worth it if you want the best deals. Wish you had someone who could guide you through the entire process including shipping? Sign up for the Auction House tour in our Paris Day tours. You might also find some other tempting ways to dig deeper into your Paris experience, like a flea market tour (bargaining for you in French included) or discovering the Hidden Gems of the Marais.

A neighborhood you will adore is Saint Germain de Près on the left bank. Little medieval streets conspire to charm you with inviting shops, art galleries and cafés. It is très chic. You dont need my help to fall in love with something in almost every doorway, but I will draw your attention to one or two or three places. Stop by the Buly 1803 shop selling uniquely stylish 19th century inspired toiletries. Trust me, this is so much better than it sounds. Afterwards enjoy a pick-me-up at La Durée just down the street and around the corner. Try to get into the back room on the ground floor where there are 18th century style Chinoisserie painted panels. Walk off the handful of macaroons you just scarfed looking for the impossibly adorable Place de Furstemberg and try to tell me it’s not the cutest

when to go

Paris has it's seasonal moods, each with it's own charm. Summer (May-August) is warm, even hot, and very crowded and advanced booking on everything is necessary.  Autumn (September & October) is my favourite time as the weather is fine, the crowds have abated, and prices go down. Paris has a melancholy beauty in winter which is a wonderful time to visit the architectural monuments which are just too busy in the summer. You could have the Eiffle tower to yourself in January, but bear in mind the auction house will not be open. In springtime (March & April), cherry blossoms and wisteria bring a femininity to Paris' classical lines but the weather can be unpredictable.

we got this

Above is a good sketch of your art infused visit to Paris. It’s enough to put you on track to finding your way around and your next best treasure. If you need more details contact Travellur to plan & book your experience. Besides having a local antiquarian on hand to guide you at flea markets, vintage shops and auctions, you’ll save time and money on your bookings.